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While many women of color feel their skin-care needs differ
from those of Caucasian women, nothing could be further
from the truth. I suspect the belief that a difference does
exist comes from persuasive marketing which seeks to segment
women of color into their own specialized group. Regardless
of color or ethnic background, all skin is subject to a
range of virtually identical problems with similar considerations.
Whether it is dry or oily skin, blemishes, scarring, wrinkles,
skin discolorations, rashes, rosacea, sensitivity, or sun
damage, the diagnosis, prognosis, and treatment is the same
for all men and women. Please don’t misunderstand: there
are certainly some distinctions between varying ethnic groups
when it comes to skin problems and skin-care options, but
overall these differences are minor in comparison to the
number of similarities. Think of it this way: regardless
of skin color, dietary needs remain the same. A high-calorie
diet results in weight gain, an unhealthy diet can cause
health risks, and if you don't eat you die, regardless of
your skin color. As far as skin care goes, skin is an organ
(the largest in the human body) and needs the same ingredients
and formulations to be healthy or deal with various skin
concerns regardless of its color.
Research on this topic supports the points above while
also noting the distinctive traits between ethnic skin
tones, though contrary to popular belief, these traits
don't mean different products are needed for treatment.
According to an article in the Journal of the American
Academy of Dermatology (February 2002, pages 41–62) "There
is not a wealth of data on racial and ethnic differences
in skin and hair structure, physiology, and function.
What studies do exist involve small patient populations
and often have methodological flaws. Consequently, few
definitive conclusions can be made. The literature does
support a racial differential in epidermal melanin [pigment]
content and melanosome dispersion in people of color compared
with fair-skinned persons. These differences could at
least in part account for the lower incidence of skin
cancer in certain people of color compared with fair-skinned
persons; a lower incidence and different presentation
of photo aging; pigmentation disorders in people with
skin of color; and a higher incidence of certain types
of alopecia [loss of hair] in Africans and African Americans
compared with those of other ancestry." While skin
cancer may not be as much of a threat or concern, skin
discolorations resulting from unprotected sun exposure
or hormonal concerns are the same as that for women with
lighter skin. Of course darker skin tones suffer less
sun-induced changes to skin (including dryness) than women
with lighter skin tones. This is due to the greater presence
of melanin in darker skin tones, but does not mean that
such skin tones don’t require a well-formulated moisturizer
when/if their skin becomes dry for other reasons. [But]
women of color are just as likely to suffer from photo(sun)-induced
dermatitis conditions as women with light skin tones,
proving that melanin only goes so far toward protecting
women of color from sun damage.
A surprising difference noted in the research it is the
imperative need to treat darker skin tones gently. When
irritated, darker skin tones can stimulate hyperpigmentation
causing patches of dark or grayish skin discolorations.
Though this is easily treated, the main focus should be
prevention. Given my fervent belief over the years that
all skin types need to be treated gently, it's encouraging
there is research pointing that way for women of color
as well. When skin is irritated it cannot protect itself
from the environment, it causes collagen and elastin to
break down, it hurts the skin's immune response, and can
cause skin to become dry (ashen) and flaky.
The bottom line is that regardless of skin color or ethnicity,
all skin needs a gentle cleanser, effective exfoliant,
state-of-the-art moisturizer (over dry areas), a sunscreen
rated SPF 15 or greater containing UVA-protecting ingredients
of avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Mexoryl
SX (ecamsule) and appropriate treatments for skin discolorations
(hydroquinone-based products), blemishes, and wrinkles.
(Sources for this article: International Journal of Dermatology,
October 2007, Supplement 1; Journal of the American Academy
of Dermatology, October 2007, pages 638-343; Dermatologic
Clinics, July 2005, pages 575-581; Cutis, August 2005,
pages 19-23 and February 2004, pages 3-13; Dermatologic
Therapy, June 2004, page 184; and Dermatologic Surgery,
January 1999, pages 18-22.)
Paula Begoun
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