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I am completely bewildered by the enthusiasm facial
exercises seems to generate. I get swarms of letters from
women telling me that I have my non-exercised head screwed
on wrong when I suggest that facial exercises don't work.
But is there any research that explains the mania surrounding
all this stretching of the face muscles?
For the most part, facial exercises are more a problem
for skin than a help. Facial exercises provide little
or no benefit because loss of muscle tone is not a major
cause of wrinkles or sagging skin. In fact, muscle tone
is barely involved in these at all. The skin's sagging
and drooping are caused by four major factors:
- Deteriorated collagen and elastin (due
primarily to sun damage);
- Depletion of the skin's fat layer (a
factor of genetic aging and gravity);
- Repetitive facial movement (particularly
true for the forehead frown lines and for smile lines
from the nose to the mouth);
- Muscle sagging due to the loosening
of facial ligaments that hold the muscles in place.
Facial exercise is not helpful for worn-out collagen,
elastin, or the skin's fat layer, because none of that
is about the muscles. It is especially not helpful for
the lines caused by facial movement! Instead, facial exercises
only make those areas appear more lined. The reason Botox
injections into the muscles of the forehead and facial
lines work to create a smoother face is because Botox
prevents the muscles from moving!
Facial exercises won't reattach facial ligaments; that
is only possible via surgery. One procedure in a surgical
face-lift is to re-drape the muscle of the cheek and the
jaw, drawing it back and then literally stitching it back
in place where it used to be. Exercise doesn't reattach
the ligaments, it just tones the sagging.
The ads for facial exercises often tout the fact that
the facial muscles are the only muscles in the body that
insert (or attach) into skin rather than into bone. They
then use this fact to explain why, if you tone facial
muscles, they directly affect the appearance of the skin.
What this doesn't say is that skin movement is one of
the things that causes the skin to sag. If you are doing
facial exercises and can see your skin move or frown lines
and laugh lines look more apparent, it only makes matters
worse.
As I was researching this article I found the name of
one dermatologist whose name showed up repeatedly on Web
sites selling facial exercise programs. Dr. Wilma Bergfeld,
Head of Clinical Research, Department of Dermatology at
The Cleveland Clinic and the first woman president of
the American Academy of Dermatology (1992) was quoted
as someone who thought facial exercise was worthwhile.
I had to hear this for myself. I spoke with Dr. Bergfeld
and it turns out she isn't quite a supporter of facial
exercises. "While there is no research or studies
demonstrating facial exercises as being helpful, it is
a reasonable assumption that it may be useful," she
said. "Though I don't recommend them I do believe
they could work in some controlled situations. However,
you would never want to do anything that moves the facial
skin, especially as it ages, or overmanipulate the skin,"
Bergfeld added, "because it would create more wrinkling,
increasing the loss of elasticity in the skin."
If facial exercises that move the skin are problematic,
what about electrical stimulation for the facial muscles?
Wouldn't that form of involuntary stimulation tone the
muscles without causing movement of the skin? The answer
to that question is a resounding yes. It would exercise
the muscle without moving skin. But there is no research
demonstrating that this wouldn't make matters worse by
creating surfaced capillaries, and it doesn't address
the issue of the muscle being toned in the wrong area
(since most women start this treatment only after the
muscles are already sagged and stretched). And it won't
affect the ligaments that have caused most of the sagging
and drooping in the first place.
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