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Battle Plans for Dry
SkinBy Paula Begoun |
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Before you begin
creating a battle plan for your dry skin anywhere on your
body, it is essential to have a fundamental understanding of
what dry skin is all about. Ironically, dry skin does not seem
to be as simple as being about a lack of moisture. There are
studies comparing the water content of dry skin to normal or
oily skin and there doesn't appear to be a statistically
significant difference. Adding more moisture to the skin is
not necessarily a good thing—if anything, too much moisture,
like soaking in a bathtub, is bad for skin because it disrupts
the skin's intracellular matrix by breaking down the
substances that keep skin cells functioning normally and in
good shape (Source: Journal of Investigative
Dermatology, February 2003, pages 275-284).
What
is thought to be taking place when dry skin occurs is that the
intracellular matrix (the substances between skin cells that
keep them intact, smooth, and healthy) has become depleted or
damaged, creating water loss. In order to prevent dry skin,
the primary goal is to reduce the damage to, as well as
preserve and enhance, the intracellular matrix.
To
reduce damage to the skin's matrix, never use drying skin-care
products such as soaps, harsh cleansers, or products with
irritating ingredients. These problematic products can disrupt
the outer layer of the skin, destroying the intracellular
matrix and eventually causing flakiness and roughness.
Constant exposure to arid environments, cold weather,
as well as dry, low humidity air blasting from heaters or air
conditioners are all problematic because they destroy the
skin's matrix. Adding a humidifier to your home can make a
world of difference!
Believe it or not, sun damage
plays a major role in why skin becomes dry any time of the
year. Unprotected sun exposure creates a damaged outer layer
of skin where skin cells adhere poorly to each other. The
result is that the surface of new skin being formed is
continually unhealthy and impaired. Sun damage also disrupts
and destroys the skin's intracellular matrix. Every day of the
year, if there is daylight, the skin is subject to sun damage.
Keep in mind that the sun's damaging rays come through office
and car windows. Daily sun protection is vital to the health
of skin.
Improving cell turnover is another important
consideration in getting rid of dry skin and improving its
appearance. Dry skin does not shed as it should and those
built-up layers of dead skin cells can feel rough and cause
skin to look flaky and dull. A well-formulated, pH-correct
exfoliant such as an alpha hydroxy acid (glycolic or lactic
acid) or beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) can handle this
problem beautifully.
Genetically, aged skin is also a
cause of dryness, because as the body's levels of estrogen
drop the skin becomes thinner and the fat deposits under the
skin (part of the skin's protective barrier) also become
thinner or depleted altogether. Regrettably, there is little
that can be done about this other than using various types of
hormone replacement therapy (HRT) and plant-based hormone
replacement (phytoestrogens) that can be consumed when eating
or drinking soy-based foods.
By the way, while
drinking eight glasses of water a day is great for your body,
it doesn't work to improve or reduce dry skin. If all it took
to get rid of dry skin was drinking more water, then no one
would have dry skin and moisturizers would stop being sold.
The causes of and treatments for dry skin are far more
complicated than just drinking water.
Here are some
great options for winning the battle:
- Wear sunscreen: Daylight, even dim, obscure
daylight, causes skin damage, which means it slowly becomes
less and less able to hold moisture or feel smooth.
- Use state-of-the-art moisturizers: Moisturizers
should be filled to the brim with antioxidants,
water-binding agents, and anti-inflammatory ingredients. If
you have persistent or exceptionally dry skin, the
moisturizers you use should also contain various forms of
lipids such as lecithin, cholesterol, glycerol, glycerides,
and plant oils. Anything less leaves your skin incapable of
warding off the environmental causes of dry skin. To ensure
stability of the light- and air-sensitive ingredients, make
sure whatever moisturizer you choose does not come in clear
or jar packaging.
- Apply and reapply moisturizer: If you have dry
skin, you really can't use too much. So whenever your skin
starts feeling dry, put more on. It is also important to be
diligent about reapplying moisturizer every time you wash
your hands. Don't forget to keep a moisturizer in your
purse, at your desk, and in every bathroom in your home.
- Avoid soap—use only gentle, nondrying cleansers:
This cannot be stressed enough. Never use a cleanser that
leaves a dry feeling on your skin, and that includes skin
from the neck down. Do not overscrub skin—you can't scour
away dryness.
- Avoid soaking in the bath tub, Jacuzzi, or taking
long showers: As wonderful as a leisurely bath or shower
feels, too much water is bad for skin because it breaks down
the skin's protective covering (the skin’s intracellular
matrix) destroying the substances that keep skin cells
intact. Keep showers or baths as short as possible.
- Get a humidifier: Low humidity is the cause of
most weather-related dry skin, whether it is winter or a
desert environment. Humidifiers are relatively inexpensive,
last a long time, and work for the whole family. If you have
a large or multi-level home, you may need two or three
humidifiers to gain benefit.
- Avoid bath oils in the bath: It does not make
much sense to pour bath oils into the bath water because
most of the oil goes down the drain, plus they make the
bathtub slippery and dangerous. Bath oils also encourage you
to soak in the tub for longer periods of time and that isn’t
good for skin. There is also research showing that oil can
trap cleansing ingredients on skin, causing irritation and
dryness. Oils are best applied when you get out of the bath
or shower, after you are well rinsed off and gently towel
dried.
- Exfoliate: Skin cell turnover (exfoliating) is a
function of healthy skin, but due to sun damage, skin more
often than not needs help with this process. A
well-formulated AHA or BHA can help skin cells turn over in
a more natural, youthful manner by removing the build-up of
old skin cells and replacing them with newer, smoother ones.
- Use a pure plant oil, such as olive oil, after your
moisturizer over dry areas: At night, after you’ve
applied your moisturizer, massage a few drops of plant oil
over stubborn dry areas. Pure olive oil is a great option
because it is rich in antioxidants.
- Don't forget your lips: Lips are the least
capable of staying smooth and soft when the air becomes dry.
They lack the lipids and cell structure the rest of the face
has and, as a result, are far more vulnerable to the effects
of dry air. During the day apply and reapply an emollient
lipstick or gloss. At night be sure to do the same. Do not
go to sleep without protecting your lips. An emollient lip
balm worn throughout the night can prevent dry lips all year
round. Be sure it doesn't contain any irritating
ingredients; peppermint and menthol (often found in lip
balms) can cause irritation and that won't help dry lips.
- Never use products that contain drying or irritating
ingredients: But you already knew that one, right?
If after all this you find that your skin is still
dry, consider wearing plastic gloves over your hands or feet
or wrapping the driest parts of your arms, legs, or feet with
plastic wrap after you apply AHA or BHA, moisturizer, and oil.
You will be shocked at the difference this can have even if
you only do it once or twice a week. (Obviously, the plastic
wrap trick is only for the elbows, hands, feet, or legs and
never the face.)
Additional sources for this article:
Dermatologic Therapy, 2004, 17 Suppl. 1:43-8;
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, April 2003,
pages 771-788; Journal of the American Academy of
Dermatology, March 2003, pages 352-358; Skin Research
and Technology, November 2003, 306-311; American
Journal of Clinical Dermatology, April 2003, pages
771-788.
Paula's Choice Battle Plans for Dry
Skin
These Paula's Choice Battle Plans are a
combination of all the elements described above: Gentle
cleansers, exfoliants, moisturizers and treatments loaded with
antioxidants, ingredients that mimic the structure of skin,
and cell-communicating ingredients.
Experimentation is
the key to finding the right combination of products that will
work for you. For example, exfoliating with 1% beta hydroxy
acid may not be enough and you would then want to consider
trying a 2% version. If you are allergic to aspirin, BHA may
cause an allergic reaction so you should consider an alpha
hydroxy acid-based exfoliant.
Battle Plan for Normal to Dry
Skin
- One
Step Face Cleanser for Normal to Dry Skin
- Moisture
Boost Hydrating Toner for Normal to Dry Skin
- 1%
Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion or 8%
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel
- Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 for Normal to Very Dry Skin
(daytime)
- Hydrating Treatment Cream (nighttime)
- Super Antioxidant Concentrate
- Skin
Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask (as desired after
cleansing)
Battle Plan for Dry to Very Dry
Skin
- Skin
Recovery Cleanser for Normal to Very Dry Skin
- Skin
Recovery Toner for Normal to Very Dry Skin
- 1%
Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion or 8%
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel
- Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 for Normal to Very Dry Skin
(daytime)
- Skin
Recovery Moisturizer (nighttime)
- Skin
Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate
- Skin
Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask (as desired after
cleansing)
Battle Plan for Dry Skin Prone to
Blemishes
- One
Step Face Cleanser for Normal to Dry Skin
- Skin
Recovery Toner for Normal to Very Dry Skin
- 1%
Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion or 2%
Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion
- Blemish Fighting Solution (over areas that break out)
- Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion SPF 15 (daytime)
- Hydrating
Treatment Cream for Normal to Dry Skin (nighttime)
These routines are a great way to start. Use these
links for more Paula's Choice product options:
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