VA/crotonates. Film-forming agent. See film-forming agent.

VA/crotonates copolymer. See VA/crotonates.

Vaccinium myrtillus. See bilberry extract.

valine. See amino acid.

Vanilla planifolia fruit extract. Extract used primarily as a fragrance and flavoring agent. The vanilla plant is a source of catechins (also known as polyphenols), which exhibit antioxidant activity and serve as anti-inflammatory agents (Source: Drugs Experimental Clinical Research, 2004; 30(1):1–10).

vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). Stimulates the growth of blood vessels. See human growth factor.

verbena extract. Fragrant extract that can be a skin irritant.

vetiver oil or extract. Fragrant component in skin-care products that also has some antibacterial properties (Source: Applied Microbiology, June 1999, pages 985–990). It can also be a skin sensitizer.

Viola tricolor extract. See pansy extract.

vitamin A. Considered a good antioxidant in some of its various forms, particularly as retinol and retinyl palmitate. See retinol and Paula’s article, “Vitamin A: Retinol,” at http://www.cosmeticscop.com.

vitamin B1. See thiamine HCL.

vitamin B12. May be effective in the treatment of psoriasis (Source: Dermatology, 2001, volume 203, number 2, pages 141–147). Overall there is limited research showing vitamin B12 has any benefit when applied topically on skin.

vitamin B2. There is no research showing this has any benefit when applied topically to skin. However, there is a small amount of research showing that riboflavin may be photosensitizing and thus cause the breakdown of skin (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 1997, volume 22, number 7, pages 1139–1144; and Toxicology Letters, August 1985, pages 211–217).

vitamin B3. See niacinamide.

vitamin B5. Also known as pantothenic acid. See pantothenic acid.

vitamin B6. There is no research showing it to have benefit for skin.

vitamin C. Considered a potent antioxidant for skin (Sources: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2002, pages 372–379, and June 2001, pages 853–859; and Toxicology in Vitro, August–October 2001, pages 357–362). Claims that vitamin C can prevent or eliminate wrinkling are not proven. An article in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (January 2000, pages 464–465) discussed the issue of vitamin C and concluded that “Vitamin C is a valuable antioxidant and protectant against photodamage that is created by sunlight in both the UVB and UVA bands…. Although oral supplementation may also be useful, topical preparations are able to deliver a higher dosage to the needed area. Topical vitamin C does not absorb or block harmful ultraviolet radiation like a sunscreen. Instead, it augments the skin’s ability to neutralize reactive oxygen singlets [free-radical damage] that are created by the ultraviolet radiation, thereby preventing photodamage to the skin. It becomes an integral part of the skin and remains unaffected by bathing, exercise, clothing, or makeup. Used appropriately, topical vitamin C is an important adjunct to the use of sunscreens, an adjunctive treatment to lessen erythema [redness] in skin resurfacing, a helpful adjunct or an alternative to Retin-A in the treatment of fine wrinkles, and a stimulant to wound healing.” See Paula’s article, “Vitamin C,” at http://www.cosmeticscop.com.

vitamin D. Provides no known benefit for skin when applied topically, though it may have antioxidant benefits. Vitamin D formed in the skin by sunlight, or in an oral supplement form, is essential for health. See Paula’s article, “Vitamin D,” at http://www.cosmeticscop.com.

vitamin E. Considered an antioxidant superstar. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin (meaning it likes fat better than water) that has eight different forms, of which some are known for being excellent antioxidants when applied topically to skin, particularly alpha tocopherol and the tocotrienols (Sources: Current Problems in Dermatology, 2001, volume 29, pages 26–42; Free Radical Biology and Medicine, May 1997, pages 761–769; Journal of Nutrition, February 2001, pages 369S–373S; and International Journal of Radiation Biology, June 1999, pages 747–755). However, other studies have indicated the acetate form (tocopherol acetate) is also bioavailable and protective for skin (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Science, January–February 2001, pages 35–50), and still other research points to tocopherol sorbate as providing significant antioxidant protection against ultraviolet radiation–induced oxidative damage (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 1995, pages 484–488). Pointing to the significance of vitamin E for skin is an article in the Journal of Molecular Medicine (January 1995, pages 7–17), which states: “More than other tissues, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental chemical and physical agents such as ultraviolet light causing oxidative stress [free-radical damage]. In the skin this results in several short- and long-term adverse effects such as erythema [redness], edema [swelling], skin thickening, wrinkling, and an increased incidence of skin cancer…. Vitamin E is the major naturally occurring lipid-soluble … antioxidant protecting skin from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photoaging [sun damage]. Many studies document that vitamin E occupies a central position as a highly efficient antioxidant, thereby providing possibilities to decrease the frequency and severity of pathological events in the skin.” See Paula’s article, “Vitamin E,” at http://www.cosmeticscop.com.

vitamin F. Name sometimes used to represent essential fatty acids of linoleic acid and linolenic acid. These are considered essential fatty acids (EFA) because they cannot be produced by the body. There are many fatty acids that have benefit for skin, including arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, docosahexaenoic, and oleic acids to name a few. These all have emollient, water-binding, and often antioxidant properties for skin. See gamma linolenic acid and linoleic acid.

vitamin H. See biotin.

vitamin K. Some cosmetics companies sell creams and lotions containing vitamin K, claiming it can reduce or eliminate surfaced spider veins (technically referred to as telangiectasias). These creams cannot change spider veins. The only research concerning vitamin K’s effectiveness on skin or surfaced spider veins comes from the companies that sell these products. There are no published or peer-reviewed studies that add up to results you can even remotely count on (Source: Archives of Dermatology, December 1998, pages 1512–1514). See Paula’s article “Vitamin K,” at http://www.cosmeticscop.com.

Vitis vinifera. Latin name for the vines that produce wine grapes. See grape seed oil and grape seed extract.

Vitreoscilla ferment. Made from a bacterium that can help cells utilize oxygen better in vitro (Source:Journal of Biotechnology, January 2001, pages 57–66). Whether that effect can be translated to benefit skin cells via a cosmetic formulation is unknown.

volatile oil. Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant additives. These components most often include a mix of alcohols, ketones, phenols, linalool, borneol, terpenes, camphor, pinene, acids, ethers, aldehydes, and sulfur, all of which have extremely irritating and sensitizing effects on skin.

VP/hexadecene copolymer. Synthetic polymer. See film-forming agent.