babassu oil. Plant oil that can have emollient properties for skin. There is no research showing it has special properties for skin.

Bacillus subtilis. Naturally occurring bacterium that is widespread and can be used to control plant diseases, fungal plant infestation, and several types of mildew. Based on available information, the bacterium appears to have no adverse effects on humans or the environment (Source: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, /www.epa.gov/pesticides/biopesticides/factsheets/fs006479e.htm). It has no known benefit when applied to skin.

balm mint extract. Extract derived from a fragrant plant; it poses some risk of skin irritation. It also has some reported antiviral properties (Source: Phytomedicine, 1999, volume 6, pages 225–230). Claims that it can help heal wounds are not substantiated.

balsam peru. Fatty resin that when applied topically can cause allergic skin reactions and contact dermatitis. It also has the potential to cause photodermatitis and phototoxicity. Balsam peru is also a standard used in patch tests for skin sensitivity due to its high incidence of causing reactions (Sources: www.naturaldatabase.com; and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, December 2001, pages 836–839). Among 3,000 known allergens, balsam peru is ranked in the top ten for most frequent offenders (Source: Deutsche Medizinische Wochenschrift, July 2006, pages 1584–1589).

banana extract. Extract from banana fruit that has some weak antioxidant properties (Source: Free Radical Research, February 2002, pages 217–233).

barberry. Plant whose primary component, berberine, is an alkaloid that can have antibacterial properties and some cellular anti-inflammatory response. However, it can also be a skin irritant because of its effect on cells (Sources: Alternative Medicine Review, April 2000, pages 175–177; and Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/herb).

barium sulfate. Mineral used as a whitening agent in cosmetics. It can be a skin irritant.

barley extract. Extract from barley plants. Can have antioxidant properties when ingested, but there is no research showing this to be the case when applied topically (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food and Chemistry, March 2001, pages 1455–1463).

batyl alcohol. Derived from glycerin and used as a stabilizing ingredient and skin-conditioning agent.

bay leaf oil. Can be a potent antioxidant (Source: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, January 2002, pages 102–108), but also can be a potent skin irritant due to its fragrant component.

bearberry extract. Latin name Arctostaphylos uva ursi, there is research showing that this extract has antibacterial and antioxidant properties (Sources: Food Microbiology, April 2003, pages 211–216; and Pharmaceutical Biology, June–July 2004, pages 289–291), and there is a small amount of research showing it can have skin-lightening properties (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, February 2003, pages 153–156). Bearberry extract’s potential efficacy is derived from its active components: hydroquinone and arbutin (Sources: Phytochemical Analysis, September–October 2001, pages 336–339; and http://supplementwatch.com/suplib/supplement.asp?DocId=1306). Hydroquinone is well established as a melanin-inhibiting agent; arbutin has far less quantitative information available, but in high concentrations it has shown it can inhibit melanin production (Source: Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, January 1996, pages 153–156). However, the small amount of bearberry extract present in skin-care products makes it unlikely that these products can affect melanin production. See arbutin and hydroquinone.

bee pollen. Can have antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, April 2001, pages 1848–1853), but there is no research showing this to be the case when applied topically. Bee pollen can also be a potent skin irritant and allergen (Source: International Archives of Allergy and Immunology, June 2001, pages 96–111).

beeswax. Substance made by bees to build the walls of their honeycomb. It is a thickening agent that has some emollient properties.

behenic acid. Fatty acid used as a thickening agent and surfactant. See fatty acid.

behentrimonium chloride. Skin-conditioning agent and emulsifier.

behenyl alcohol. Thickening agent used in cosmetics. It is not related to irritating forms of alcohol.

Bellis perennis. See daisy flower extract.

bentonite. Type of clay that is used as an absorbent in cosmetics. It can be drying for skin, though its absorbent properties are helpful for those with oily skin.

benzalkonium chloride. Antimicrobial agent used as a preservative in skin-care products. There is no research showing it has any effect against the acne bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. It can be a skin irritant (Source: SKINmed, May–June 2005, pages 183–185).

benzephenone-3. Also called oxybenzone, a sunscreen agent that protects skin primarily from the sun’s UVB rays and some, but not all, UVA rays (Sources: www.photodermatology.com/sunprotection.htm; and Skin Therapy Letter, 1997, volume 2, number 5). See UVA.

benzocaine. Topical anesthetic (Sources: Dermatol Surgery, December 2001, pages 1010–1018; and Pediatric Dentistry, January–February 2001, pages 19–23).

benzoic acid. Preservative used in skin-care products; it is considered less irritating than some other forms of preservatives.

benzoin extract. Balsam resin that has some disinfecting and fragrant properties; it may also be a skin irritant (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).

benzophenone. Group of compounds used in cosmetics as sunscreen agents to protect mostly from UVB radiation and from some, but not all, UVA radiation (Sources: www.photodermatology.com/sunprotection.htm; and Skin Therapy Letter, 1997, volume 2, number 5). See UVA.

benzothonium chloride. Compound used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is generally considered less irritating than some other forms of preservatives.

benzoyl peroxide. Considered the most effective over-the-counter choice for a topical antibacterial agent in the treatment of blemishes (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September–October 2000, pages 292–296). The amount of research demonstrating the effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide is exhaustive and conclusive (Source: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, November 1999, pages 710–716). Among benzoyl peroxide’s attributes is its ability to penetrate into the hair follicle to reach the bacteria that cause the problem, and then kill them—with a low risk of irritation. It also doesn’t pose the problem of bacterial resistance that some prescription topical antibacterials (antibiotics) do (Source: Dermatology, 1998, volume 196, issue 1, pages 119–125). Current research shows benzoyl peroxide is more effective than some other prescription treatments for acne, such as oral antibiotics or topical antibiotics (Source: Lancet, December 2004, pages 2188–2195).

Benzoyl peroxide solutions range in strength from 2.5% to 10%. It is best to start with lower concentrations because a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product is much less irritating than a 5% or 10% concentration, and it can be just as effective. The concentration that is required depends entirely on how stubborn the strain of bacteria in your pores happens to be.

benzyl alcohol. See alcohol.

Berberis aristata. See barberry.

bergamot oil. A volatile citrus oil that, when used topically, is a photosensitizer and has photomutagenic properties, meaning it can induce malignant changes to cells (Sources: www.naturaldatabase.com; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 2001, pages 458–461; and Journal of Dermatology, May 1994, pages 319–322).

Bertholletia excelsa extract. See Brazil nut extract.

beta hydroxy acid. See salicylic acid.

beta sitosterol. Plant extract, similar to cholesterol, that can have antimicrobial properties (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, January 2002, pages 129–132) and, therefore, may be a problem for healthy skin cells. There is a small amount of research showing it has anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, May 2001, pages 470–473).

beta-carotene. Member of the carotenoid family. There are hundreds of carotenoids, including lycopene and lutein. Beta-carotene is a precursor that helps form retinol (vitamin A). It is converted to vitamin A in the liver as needed. Topically, beta-carotene is potentially a good antioxidant and can reduce the effects of sun damage, although this benefit is dose dependent. There is research showing that too much beta-carotene can generate oxidative damage (Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, May 2002, pages 503–506; The Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology Journal, August 2002, pages 1289–1291; and Berkeley Wellness Newsletter, www.berkeleywellness.com/html/ds/dsBetaCarotene.php).

beta-glucan. Polysaccharide, meaning that it is a sugar (e.g., starch and cellulose) that can be derived from yeast. It has some antioxidant properties and is a strong anti-inflammatory agent (Source: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, February 2001, pages 393–402). See mucopolysaccharide.

Betula alba. See birch bark extract.

BHA. Acronym for butylated hydroxyanisole, a potent synthetic antioxidant (Sources: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2002, pages 3322–3327; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 1996, volume 20, number 2, pages 225–236), but also a suspected carcinogen (Source: Mutation Research and Genetic Toxicology and Environmental Mutagenesis, July 2002, pages 123–133). The acronym BHA should not be confused with beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid), which is an exfoliant. Salicylic acid is abbreviated in discussions as BHA, but it would never be listed that way on a cosmetic ingredient list.

BHA (beta hydroxy acid). See salicylic acid.

BHT. Butylated hydroxytoluene, a potent synthetic antioxidant that also has carcinogenic properties (Sources: Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, May 2002, pages 1203–1210; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, February 2000, pages 330–336). See BHA.

bifida ferment lysate. Type of gram-positive bacteria found in the digestive system. It has no known effect on skin when applied topically.

bifidus extract. Carbohydrate in human milk that stimulates the growth of Lactobacillus bifidus in the intestine. In turn, the Lactobacillus bifidus lowers the pH of the intestinal contents and suppresses the growth of Escherischia coli and other pathogenic bacteria. Whether or not bifidus extract can have benefit for skin is unknown.

bilberry extract. Some research shows bilberry (vaccinium myrtillis) to be effective as an antioxidant when ingested due to its antocyanin content. This effect has not been demonstrated on skin (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, September 2001, pages 4183–4187).

bioflavonoid. Diverse range of substances that are components of many fruits and vegetables. Many have been shown to have potent antioxidant and gene-regulatory activity (Sources: Annals of the New York Academy of Science, May 2002, pages 70–77; Planta Medica, August 2001, pages 515–519; and Free Radical Biology and Medicine, June 1998, pages 1355–1363).

biotin. Also known as vitamin H, a water-soluble vitamin produced in the body by certain types of intestinal bacteria and obtained from food. Considered part of the B complex group of vitamins, biotin is necessary for the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, and amino acids (the building blocks of protein). However, it has no reported benefit for skin when applied topically.

birch bark extract. Extract derived from the plant Betula alba (common name white birch). It can have potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, October 1999, pages 3954–3962), but can also have astringent properties, which makes it a potential irritant for skin if it is one of the main ingredients in a product.

birch leaf extract. See birch bark.

bisabolol. Can be extracted from chamomile or derived synthetically. It is an anti-irritant.

bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

bismuth oxychloride. The standard primary ingredient included in most powders that are referred to as “mineral makeup.” The claim for bismuth oxychloride is that it is all-natural and better for skin than talc. In fact, in many ways talc is a more natural, unadulterated, pure ingredient than bismuth oxychloride. Bismuth oxychloride, which seldom occurs in nature, is manufactured by combining bismuth, a by-product of lead and copper metal refining, with chloride (chlorine compound) and water. It’s used in cosmetics because it has a distinct shimmery, pearlescent appearance and a fine white powder texture that adheres well to skin. Bismuth oxychloride is heavier than talc. Pure bismuth is a naturally occurring, grayish-white powder. It and its derivatives are used as skin protectives, thickeners, and absorbent agents. Bismuth oxychloride was permanently listed by the FDA as a coloring agent in 1977 and as a synthetic ingredient (Source: The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Eleventh Edition, 2006).

bitter orange flower. See orange blossom.

black cohosh. There is research showing that black cohosh when taken orally can have an effect on menopausal and pre-menopausal symptoms (Source: Journal of the American Pharmaceutical Association, March–April 2000, pages 327–329). However, there is no research showing that black cohosh can have this or any effect when applied topically on skin (Source: www.herbmed.org).

black currant oil. Non-volatile plant oil. See gamma linolenic acid.

black elderberry. When taken orally, this has potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2000, pages 1588–1592), but it is not known if it has benefit when applied topically.

black locust extract. Extract that can have antioxidant properties, although it also may have toxic components (Source: FDA, Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition, “Poisonous Plant Bibliography,” www.fda.gov).

black mulberry. There is no research showing this has any benefit when applied topically to skin.

black pepper extract and oil. Used topically as a counter-irritant, which means it can cause significant skin irritation (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). See counter-irritant.

black raspberry. Fruit that has potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, June 5, 2002, pages 3495–3500).

black tea. See green tea.

blackberry. Berries that have potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, June 5, 2002, pages 3495–3500).

bladderwrack extract. Extract derived from seaweed; it can be an effective antioxidant and has water-binding properties for skin (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2002, pages 1–9; and Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, February 2002, pages 840–845).

bloodwort. Also known as yarrow. See yarrow extract.

bois oil. Fragrant oil that has no research showing it has benefit for skin (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com).

borage seed extract. Extract of the plant Borago officinalis, it can have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Biofactors, 2000, volume 13, pages 179–185).

borage seed oil. Contains gamma linolenic acid (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). See gamma linolenic acid.

borate. Group of compounds used in cosmetics in small quantities primarily as pH adjusters (they have a pH of 9 to 11) or as antimicrobial agents (Source: Biological Trace Element Research, winter 1998, pages 343–357). In larger amounts, due to their high pH, they can be significant skin irritants.

borax. Also known as sodium borate decahydrate, borax is a mineral composed of sodium, boron, oxygen, and water. It has fungicide, preservative, insecticide, herbicide, and disinfectant properties. Borax functions as a bleaching agent by converting some water molecules into hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), which generates free-radical damage and is a problem for skin. The pH range of borax is about 9 to 11; therefore, it can be a significant skin irritant when used in cosmetics.

boric acid. May have wound-healing benefits (Source: Journal of Trace Elements in Medicine and Biology, October 14, 2000, pages 168–173), but in cosmetics is used primarily as an antimicrobial agent.

boron nitride. Synthetic, inorganic powder, which in cosmetics has absorbent properties similar to those of natural powders such as talc.

Boswellia carterii. See frankincense extract.

bovine spongiform encephalopathy. See Mad Cow Disease.

boysenberry. Berry that can have potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, June 5, 2002, pages 3495–3500).

Brassica campestris. See rapeseed oil.

Brazil nut extract. Extract for which there is a small amount of research showing it can have antioxidant properties (Source: Chemosphere, February 1995, pages 801–802).

broad spectrum. Term that, when applied to sunscreen, refers to a sunscreen’s ability to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. As this book goes to press, this term is not regulated by the FDA; thus, a cosmetics company can make this claim about a product even when it does not actually provide complete UVA or UVB broad-spectrum protection. See UVA and UVB.

bromelain. Bromelain is a crude extract from the pineapple that contains, among other components, various closely related proteinases, demonstrating, in vitro and in vivo, anti-edematous, anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, and fibrinolytic activities. The active factors involved are biochemically characterized only in part. Due to its efficacy after oral administration, its safety, and lack of undesired side effects, bromelain has earned growing acceptance and compliance among patients as a phytotherapeutical drug. Recent results from preclinical and pharmacological studies recommend bromelain as an oral drug for complementary tumor therapy: “Bromelain acts as an immunomodulator by raising the impaired immunocytotoxicity of monocytes against tumor cells … modulation of immune functions, its potential to eliminate burn debris and to accelerate wound healing. Topical bromelain (35% in a lipid base) has achieved complete debridement on experimental burns in rats” (Source: Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, August 2001). There is a good deal of research supporting oral use of bromelain, particularly to reduce edema and inflammation (Source: Phytomedicine, December 2002, pages 681–686).

The research about bromelain is related to oral consumption and animal studies. Theoretically, bromelain breaks down the connecting structure that holds surface skin cells together, which causes exfoliation but can also cause irritation. However, exactly how much bromelain is needed (the amount used in skin-care products is typically less than 1%), whether it is stable as used in cosmetics, and in what bases and pH it works best have not been established. There is little to no research demonstrating how bromelain reacts on skin.

bronopol. Technical name 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, a formaldehyde-releasing preservative (Source: Contact Dermatitis, December 2000, pages 339–343). When combined with an amine in cosmetics it may release nitrosamines. See formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

bronze powder. Mineral coloring agent derived from copper. Permanently listed (since 1977) by the FDA as a safe coloring additive.

bumetrizole. Sunscreen ingredient that absorbs primarily UVB light.

Bupleurum falcatum extract. There is no research showing extracts of this plant have any benefit for skin, though it may have some wound-healing properties for peptic ulcers. It does contain glucoside and polysaccharide, but whether these can affect skin through topical application of the extract is unknown (Source: Phytotherapy Research, February 2002, pages 91–93). See mucopolysaccharide.

burdock root. Small amount of research shows that this plant may be effective as an anti-inflammatory agent and antioxidant (Source: www.herbmed.org).

butcher's broom extract. There is evidence showing that this extract can reduce edema and venous problems when taken orally (Source: Journal of Alternative Complementary Medicine, December 2000, pages 539–549). It may also have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but there is little evidence for that.

butyl acetate. Solvent used in nail polish and many other products.

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. See avobenzone.

butylene glycol. See propylene glycol.

butylparaben. See parabens.

Butyrospermum fruit. Fruit from the karite tree, scientific name Butyrospermum parkii, from which the fat is obtained to make shea butter. See shea butter.

Buxus chinensis. See jojoba oil.